The last few days have been quite different from our time in the canyon as we traveled through two cities – Austin and San Antonio. In Austin, our campsite was pretty close to town yet we watched a bobcat pass through the camp. In San Antonio, we are now staying about 45 minutes outside the city at the Guadalupe River State Park Campground with trails along the river and birds everywhere. We are trying to learn the songs of the different species here.
Austin is an interesting city, but we find the quaintness of San Antonio more to our liking. As one local told us, “Keep Austin weird and San Antonio lame” is a cherished saying here. The River Walk is charming with overhanging trees, stone walkways, and enchanting homes of all sizes. We had lunch in the Blue Star district, once home to a large flour mill, that still exists today, and to warehouses used by companies to ship and store their goods alongside the railroad. Now, the warehouses have been converted into living spaces, artists’ studios, and restaurants. We strolled the River Walk to downtown San Antonio which caters to tourists with little shops and restaurants decked out with outdoor tables, umbrellas, and heaters.
Ok, I’m not a history writer so bear with me here, but the history of Texas is quite fascinating so I will share. As always, history tells stories of wanting immigrants – as Texas did to help secure the state against Mexico, but then later wanted to close its doors. Ah yes, cycles – that’s history for ya.
Visiting the Alamo, in juxtaposition to the modern buildings surrounding it, is a step back in time. The Alamo was once called Mission San Antonio de Valero when it was built around 1718. The purpose of the missions was to convert the indigenous people to Catholicism and to teach them the Spanish way of life. Native Americans were taught farming, stonework, raising livestock, and the like so they would be loyal to Spain and not to other foreign powers. Missionaries and Native Americans lived and worked together and were protected from other indigenous people. Over the years, Native American convert populations dwindled, mission lands were given to the Spanish locals, and eventually the Alamo evolved into a military outpost for Spain, and later Mexico, Texas, and the United States.
Walking into the Alamo, this relatively small building, and reading about its history allows one to witness the changes of its use and feel the resilience of the men who fought to uphold Texas during the legendary battle of the Texas Revolution in 1836. At that time, the Mexican soldiers, led by General Santa Anna, sieged the fort after 13 days in which the Texans, including Davy Crockett, tried to hold them back. Included in the list of dead was one William Lewis of Virginia – Mike’s father’s namesake and birthplace. We will have to do some exploring of possible connections.
For Texans, defeat at the Alamo only incited them to continue to fight for their independence. With their rallying cry, “Remember the Alamo” Sam Houston and about 800 Texans soon defeated Santa Anna’s Mexican forces at San Jacinto – near the site of present day Houston. Houston pressured Santa Anna, now a prisoner, to declare defeat and his troops were forced to withdraw from San Antonio. Now declaring itself an independent republic, Texas was jubilant but would still need to fight off Mexico over the next ten years.
Jumping ahead, eventually the United States annexed Texas in 1845 and used the Alamo to store supplies and quarter troops. The US stationed more troops along the Texas border in expectation of a military response from Mexico – which came to be – the Mexican War of 1846. Over the next fifty years, the Alamo went through many changes in ownership, usage, and reconstruction. Today, it stands, along with other San Antonio missions, on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The missions are a must-see, but if you can, have a drink in the lobby of the Hotel Emma. Hotel Emma is located in the newly renovated, upscale Pearl District which houses a Culinary School and more. The hotel was once a brewery and there are even rooms in the original brewhouse tower. The lobby is decorated with a mix of industrial-history, old Texas luxury, and fresh flowers spilling out of vases in every cozy nook. I have no idea what a room goes for, but there is a rooftop pool, a library, and a restaurant so next time that’s where I’m staying!
Mike and I are a bit tired of the city so we are now on our way to Devil’s River State Park. The park is some 20 miles off of a gravel road and totally off the grid. The ranger I spoke with kept asking me if we had ever been here before. He explained it was in the middle of nowhere and that sounds good to us. We will fill Elvis’s tank with water, fuel up, and pick up provisions. We will be, as they say in trailer language – dry camping. We are looking forward to some tranquility.
Arna’s Ramblings 