Arivaca

We lucked out once again. At first we were disappointed because the campground north of Tucson in the Catalina Mountains was all booked up except for a few spotty nights here and there. So Mike did some online research and happened upon a place south of Tucson, close to the border, between the Buenos Aries Wildlife Preserve and Patagonia Lake. We are so happy here in Arivaca that we are staying another night. The owner Steve couldn’t be friendlier and even helped us set up Elvis when we arrived in the rain. We are situated by a small pond, with two resident ducks, encircled by mountains. There is a neighboring mule, a few rabbits, and the coolest looking cardinals called Pyrrhuloxia (Jorden and Brett take note!). At night we hear the coyotes howling and whimpering and the skies are pink at dawn and dusk.

We spent one day in downtown Tucson and visited the Pima Air and Space Museum. Mike didn’t have his brother, Dave, to chum with and swap plane knowledge so I had to suffice. I guess it’s like anything you are interested in, but Mike can name a plane and tell you its history, how it operates, and whatever else. It’s Greek to me. We also visited a small town Tubac, filled with artists working in studios and selling crafts, more my speed, where we shopped for some turquoise and knick knacks.

Yesterday morning we dipped into the eastern edge of the Buenos Aries Preserve close to our campground. A peaceful place with well maintained trails throughout. We were focused on a hawk perched high up in a dead tree thinking, well hoping, it was a Gray Hawk because they are rarely seen. But, we happened to meet another woman, Michelle, who was actually from Denver, who informed us that it was a red tail. He was a beauty anyway and Michelle taught us a few things about birding, and we saw our first javelinas of this trip. What’s a javelina? Think pig, cinghiale, or wild boar. They live in small herds rustling and snorting around in the grasses of the desert. They have a pig-like snout, brownish coarse hair, and these long canines that protrude out from their jaws. They aren’t exactly pretty but interesting to watch.

Our new obsession is birding and I can see that it could become an addiction. Therefore, we just had to go to the Patagonia, Arizona, renowned as one of the world’s best birding destinations. Patagonia is a tiny town of artists and retirees nestled among mountains and the Patagonia lake. Hmmm, retirement here? Well, the birds certainly were plentiful. I saddled up beside a volunteer, Julie, who truly knew her birds and where to find them. We were thrilled to see a Violet-Crowned Hummingbird sitting patiently in a tree, a larger body than typical with an unusual curved orange beak. Julie helped me spot a White Crowned Sparrow, Lesser Goldfinch, Gila Woodpecker, Gamble’s Quail and some rarely seen Inca Dove, Fox Sparrow, and the highlight – Lazuli Bunting with its gorgeous blue feathers.

As we marveled in our days sightings we feasted on fresh trout over our campfire and once again enjoyed a heavenly pink sunset.

The next day we ventured deeper into the Buenos Aires Preserve where we did some more birding as we hiked through grassy desert grounds with no one in sight. We saw one coyote but disappointingly no prong horns. Yet, we watched a Northern Harrier flying low to the ground hunting for prey, a Loggerhead Shrike, and my favorite – a regal American Kestrel! But, the luckiest find was actually on our drive out, perched on a telephone pole, was a Crested Caracara – known in the birding world a lifer find! A long-legged falcon with a distinguished red face, a black cap, and black wings with white tips. Ok, should we quit now while we are ahead?

After birding we drove in to Tucson to the Art Museum where we saw a fantastic show by a Cuban artist Carlos Estevez. A prolific painter/sculptor/illustrator whose works are reminiscent of Da Vinci, and like him, he kept intricate notebooks which were also on display. Estevez explores dreams, spirituality, and human functionality within the universe. Too complicated to explain so look him up. The museum also had several Rodin sculptures and a few paintings from my favorite Native American artist Fritz Scholder with his use of bold colors and true depictions of Native Americans.

We topped off the evening with a concert in the Fox Theatre listening to the Richard Thompson Electric Trio. We were among the youngest in the crowd, but Thompson, at age 69, was the most vibrant. He played for over two hours without a break and we were amazed at the strength of his voice and endurance. His drummer, Michael Jerome, was outstanding, and the trio played from their new album along with some oldies from Thompson’s Fairport Convention days. His acoustic solos were simply phenomenal. Trev, Ian, Andrew, Graham and Ethan – keep on playing – it’s a lifetime enjoyment.

Today is Monday and we will be packing up Elvis, heading back to the Buenos Aires Preserve for some more birding, a stop at the Botanical Garden in Tucson, and then on to the Catalina Mountains north of the city to set up camp.

But I can’t leave without telling you about Steve the owner of the La Siesta Campground. Steve is a true gem. I just heard his story about losing everything he had – several properties in LA and more. He has now run this campground for seven years without a day off. He takes in homeless kids from the area, and some from LA, and gives them a trailer to live in and his heart for a home. He guides them in being good stewards of the earth and reliable workers. He models for them how one can always pick up and start again even after losing everything. He watched a plot of land go from $38k down to $5k and then he jumped in. With the kids listening in he asked the realtor to see if the seller would carry him. The realtor was skeptical and told him so. But Steve insisted, the buyer agreed, and the kids learned the value of being an upstanding, hard-working citizen who gives back to the community. He has even been given two cars from a local community nonprofit but unfortunately the kids have totaled them. He said they are now on their best behavior. And for food? He has it delivered from Walmart and neighbors always check in when they drive in to town to get provisions for him. He says it’s all a labor of love.

3 thoughts on “Arivaca

  1. Thoroughly enjoying Travels with Arna and Mike! Somehow you seem to be mixing a whirlwind tour w a leisurely mindset. Perfect hybrid. And the birds!! Jorden would love that element of the trip. Keep rollin’
    Jay
    Looking forward to a missive after the peyote button leg of the trip😜

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  2. I am taking notes and going to look up every bird you mentioned!
    And so inspiring to hear about a heart as big as Steve’s-what a kind & soulful man.

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  3. Love the art show photographs–such creative works! Particularly love the journal entries with drawings! You two have become quite the bird watchers, indeed!

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